Kluane National Park, Yukon

Costs (I spent):

Transportation: $300 car rental (3 days), plus $70 gas

Campsite: $25/night with firewood

Food: $15/day

Kluane National Park is located about 2-3 hours west of Whitehorse. As far as I can tell the only way to really experience the park is with the use of a car. I rented a car in Whitehorse, renting a car on weekends is generally cheaper than weekdays. The drive out to the park is really scenic, I saw a few elk along the highway, and the Yukon government has put many rest stops with viewpoints and historic info along the way. Haines Junction is the town at the entrance to the park, the town has little more than the park visitors centre, bakery/cafe, gas stations, small store, and motel. There is not much food in available, its a good idea to stock up at a grocery store in Whitehorse, the bakery has pizza, sandwiches, and things like that. The park visitors centre is worth stopping in for a few minutes.

Upon arrival at the park I set up camp at one of the Kathleen Lake Campsites. I elected not to do any backcoutry camping in Kluane due to large populations of both grizzly and black bears in the park. Backcountry camping requires backpackers to carry a bear canister bucause trees are generally not tall enough to hang a bear bag. In my opinion camping at the campsite suited my needs better than backcountry camping, although I was a bit disappointed there were no showers here. The first day I hiked up to the Kings Throne which is not far from the campground. This is an unbelievably great hike. I hiked up the ridge a bit further but the high wind and altitude made it a bit uncomfortable so I went back own and relaxed for a bit in the flower filled meadow on the throne before heading back down. Hiking back down on the loose rock is a bit sketchy. I completed the trail in about 3 hours (return) and was not rushing at all, Parks Canada says it takes 4-6 hours to complete. I also did the Rock Glacier trail that day since it was recommended to me by an older couple in Skagway, trail was just OK.

The second day I drove up to the Tachal Dall area of the park and did the Sheep's Creek trail which was awesome despite not seeing any sheep. While driving I see an animal with four legs from a distance standing in the highway and my first thought is its a deer, moose, or elk. As I get close it starts to trot across the highway and I begin to sense from its gait that this is not a deer, moose, or elk. Getting closer I can make out a long bushy tail, and just before the animal disappears into the woods it pauses and looks back at the car and I get a good look at it. Its a wolf. It is HUGE, its back is about waist height and the distance between the front and back legs is unbelievable. I estimate it is close to 200 lbs. I don't quite believe what I see so I go the the Haines Junction visitors center to ask the staff there, they show me some plaster casts of wolf prints that match what I have seen. The footprints are 10cm in diameter, way bigger than any dog footprint I have seen. Then I do the Auriol trail, which is good. I goes through the woods and follows an ice cold mountain stream at the feet of the mountain range. I am swarmed my mosquitoes, as I walk and swing my arms my hands swat hundreds of bugs with each stride. By the time I get back to the car I'm almost running because I'm so irritated by the bugs. I see a porcupine on the drive. I was going to try another trail south of the Rock Glacier trail before but as I pulled in to the parking lot I notice a black shape in a field on the other side of the highway. I walk up a small hill to get a better look and see its a bear eating grasses. I snap a couple quick picture because I realise I'm a bit too close. I back up and get closer to the car and watch the bear through binoculars. Its a black bear but again massive, way bigger than any black bear I've seen. At this point I'm thinking every animal in this park is jumbo sized. Its wanders through the field for a couple minutes then disappears into the trees without ever noticing me. I call it a day after that.

The third day I do the Alsek Valley trail, or part of it at least. Its been warm the last couple days so the creeks are running high. I jump over the first couple streams  but eventually get to one I have to wade through. I don't feel like wading through ice cold muddy water that day so I turn back after about 6km. I see some Grizzly bear tracks in the mud. I pack up my camp and head back to Whitehorse.

This park is absolutely stunning. I realise it is a bit more expensive to get there but I'm still somewhat surprised at the lack of young people who visit.