Kluane National Park, Yukon

Costs (I spent):

Transportation: $300 car rental (3 days), plus $70 gas

Campsite: $25/night with firewood

Food: $15/day

Kluane National Park is located about 2-3 hours west of Whitehorse. As far as I can tell the only way to really experience the park is with the use of a car. I rented a car in Whitehorse, renting a car on weekends is generally cheaper than weekdays. The drive out to the park is really scenic, I saw a few elk along the highway, and the Yukon government has put many rest stops with viewpoints and historic info along the way. Haines Junction is the town at the entrance to the park, the town has little more than the park visitors centre, bakery/cafe, gas stations, small store, and motel. There is not much food in available, its a good idea to stock up at a grocery store in Whitehorse, the bakery has pizza, sandwiches, and things like that. The park visitors centre is worth stopping in for a few minutes.

Upon arrival at the park I set up camp at one of the Kathleen Lake Campsites. I elected not to do any backcoutry camping in Kluane due to large populations of both grizzly and black bears in the park. Backcountry camping requires backpackers to carry a bear canister bucause trees are generally not tall enough to hang a bear bag. In my opinion camping at the campsite suited my needs better than backcountry camping, although I was a bit disappointed there were no showers here. The first day I hiked up to the Kings Throne which is not far from the campground. This is an unbelievably great hike. I hiked up the ridge a bit further but the high wind and altitude made it a bit uncomfortable so I went back own and relaxed for a bit in the flower filled meadow on the throne before heading back down. Hiking back down on the loose rock is a bit sketchy. I completed the trail in about 3 hours (return) and was not rushing at all, Parks Canada says it takes 4-6 hours to complete. I also did the Rock Glacier trail that day since it was recommended to me by an older couple in Skagway, trail was just OK.

The second day I drove up to the Tachal Dall area of the park and did the Sheep's Creek trail which was awesome despite not seeing any sheep. While driving I see an animal with four legs from a distance standing in the highway and my first thought is its a deer, moose, or elk. As I get close it starts to trot across the highway and I begin to sense from its gait that this is not a deer, moose, or elk. Getting closer I can make out a long bushy tail, and just before the animal disappears into the woods it pauses and looks back at the car and I get a good look at it. Its a wolf. It is HUGE, its back is about waist height and the distance between the front and back legs is unbelievable. I estimate it is close to 200 lbs. I don't quite believe what I see so I go the the Haines Junction visitors center to ask the staff there, they show me some plaster casts of wolf prints that match what I have seen. The footprints are 10cm in diameter, way bigger than any dog footprint I have seen. Then I do the Auriol trail, which is good. I goes through the woods and follows an ice cold mountain stream at the feet of the mountain range. I am swarmed my mosquitoes, as I walk and swing my arms my hands swat hundreds of bugs with each stride. By the time I get back to the car I'm almost running because I'm so irritated by the bugs. I see a porcupine on the drive. I was going to try another trail south of the Rock Glacier trail before but as I pulled in to the parking lot I notice a black shape in a field on the other side of the highway. I walk up a small hill to get a better look and see its a bear eating grasses. I snap a couple quick picture because I realise I'm a bit too close. I back up and get closer to the car and watch the bear through binoculars. Its a black bear but again massive, way bigger than any black bear I've seen. At this point I'm thinking every animal in this park is jumbo sized. Its wanders through the field for a couple minutes then disappears into the trees without ever noticing me. I call it a day after that.

The third day I do the Alsek Valley trail, or part of it at least. Its been warm the last couple days so the creeks are running high. I jump over the first couple streams  but eventually get to one I have to wade through. I don't feel like wading through ice cold muddy water that day so I turn back after about 6km. I see some Grizzly bear tracks in the mud. I pack up my camp and head back to Whitehorse.

This park is absolutely stunning. I realise it is a bit more expensive to get there but I'm still somewhat surprised at the lack of young people who visit.

Whitehorse, Yukon

Costs (I spent):
Hostel: $30/night
Food: $20/day

Whitehorse is a relatively large town with a lot of cool history. It has several excellent bars, all major Canadian banks, an outdoors store, hostels, coffee shops, large grocery stores. The Beez Knees Hostel is really good. Very compact town easy to walk around. From Whitehorse there are few destinations within reach, Dawson City is possible via bus but the trip is long and requires a long return trip or long trip on to Fairbanks, Alaska. I chose to fly from Whitehorse back to Vancouver.

Skagway, Alaska

Costs (I spent):

Hostel: $15/night

Food: $20/day
Transportation: $119 Train/bus out of Skagway to Whitehorse.

Skagway is a small town but is host to many cruise ships. When there is no cruise ship in port the town is eerily quiet. When cruise ship have unloaded the passengers the town goes into full swing, there are people in costume, stores trying to sell diamonds and jewelry and other tourist trinkets. The cruise ship Skagway can be a little annoying in my opinion. Fortunately there is an escape in the form of a great day hiking trail that climbs the mountain on the eastern border of the town. This trail known as the Upper Dewey Lake trail goes to a beautiful alpine lake, be prepared for a tough climb. From Upper Dewey there is a really cool extension to the Devil's Punchbowl which is even more difficult hike but definitely worth doing.

Skagway has everything a backpacker needs: There is a good and inexpensive hostel. The hostel in Skagway is known as a home hostel which basically means a hostel is operated out of someones home. Although kinda weird at first the concept works thanks to a great owner. The mixed dorm (cheapest option) is located in a cabin just a few feet from the main building, if travelling there in winter keep in mind going to the bathroom will require putting boots on. In that case its probably worth it to spend the couple extra bucks for one of the other dorm rooms. There is also a campground near the ferry dock, however it costs $25 per campsite and therefore if travelling alone it is cheaper to stay in the hostel. There is also an new hostel in Skagway that I know little about.

Skagway has a couple cool coffee shops and pubs (especially the Red Onion).

Grocery store in Skagway is small and limited, food is slightly more expensive than larger less remote areas.

From Skagway there is only two possible directions of travel:

South to Juneau (see post).

North to Whitehorse, Yukon. Going north backpackers can take the bus which is the cheapest option and is very scenic. Most drivers will also give some history and stories as they go through the valley and up to the mountain pass. The bus is also the fastest route. The other option is the Train-Bus combo. The train is a narrow gauge railway restored from the gold rush era. Best part about this is they let you stand outside on the platforms as the train travels through the valley and over the mountain pass. I don't want to be a downer but I can't believe they allow people to do this. The only thing preventing people from falling out of a moving train is a waist high rail and at many points the train passes along rock cliffs where a rock could easily fall on a passenger standing outside. So hold on and be careful when taking pics. Regardless, its fun as hell. Train meets the bus in Fraser, BC and passengers continue to Whitehorse. Train is more expensive and takes a bit longer. Be prepared to cross the border and go through customs for either option. http://www.wpyr.com/

Ferry between Juneau and Skagway, Alaska

Costs (I spent):

Transportation: $50 for ferry ride itself

Food: $8 for a pizza on board.

This ferry takes about 6 hours to reach Skagway. There is opportunity to see Humpback Whales, porpuses, and Orcas. The mountains north of Juneau get even taller and more spectacular. Also, the ocean becomes increasingly fed by glacial streams and rivers and has a vibrant blue-green colour to it. Approaching Skagway the mountains close in on the boat until there is no more ocean.

Food is available on board from the cafeteria.

Juneau, Alaska

Costs (I spent):

Accommodation: Camping $10/night

Bus within Juneau: I think it was $1.50/trip

Food: probably $15-20/day

Juneau is only accessible by boat and plane. I arrived at the ferry terminal, inside I spoke to a guy at the information desk who told me how to get the bus to the Mendenhall Lake Campground. Getting from the ferry terminal to the campground requires about a 3Km hike along the highway to a bus stop at De Harts store (all locals pronounce it "dee Harts"). You want the bus going up the hill. And after you get off the bus you have about another 2Km hike to the campground.

The Campground itself is amazing, fire wood is included in the price, there are great views of the glacier, and great access to the West Glacier hiking trail. I highly recommend doing at least half of the West Glacier trail. The town of Juneau is fairly far from the campground getting there will require a bus. The town has some cool bars and coffee shops but is somewhat touristy due to the cruise ship crowd. There is a hostel in the town of Juneau but the owner kicks everyone out at 9am and lets everyone back in at 5pm because he has to go to work. I recommend the Mendenhall Campground instead.

For backpackers going from the ferry terminal to the campground food choices are limited so plan ahead and pack an extra dehydrated meal or buy food at De Harts because that will be the only option other than taking the bus into town.

Inside Passage Route from Prince Rupert to Juneau, Alaska

Costs (I spent):

Transportation: $141 (US)

Food: $30, food on board is somewhat reasonable, I brought some snacks on board. There is also opportunity to buy food in Ketchikan as the boat stops along the way.

Accomidation: $0 !! None required, plenty of good sleeping spots on board at no cost.

This is a route that passes through spectacular views of the coastal mountains in Alaska. The mountains seem to get bigger the further north you travel. Its a long trip 28-36 hours depending on the ship and scheduled stops. Unlinke the BC Ferries the Alaska ferry allows passengers to get off the boat whenever it stops, so you will have 20-90 minutes to explore a couple towns along the way.

The ferries are perfectly suited for backpackers, showers are free (on most boats, some will cost $2). There are a variety of free sleeping options on board. Sleeping outside in the solarium or pitching a tent on the back deck is permitted and very comfortable. I recommend sleeping on the long beach chairs available in the solarium. Its out of the wind and there are radiant heaters covering the entire ceiling of the solarium, they will keep you perfectly warm and comfortable in your sleeping bag. Pitching a tent on deck will expose the tent to a lot of wind, bring duct tape. Also a tent will take up space other passengers would use to walk around or relax outside. It is also possible to sleep in a seat inside, or find a quiet corner inside to sleep. Apparently in the summer months the ships can get busy and space will be at a premium, I was there in late June and there was only a handful of other backpackers sleeping in the solarium with me. Lockers are also available on board for 25 or 50 cents.

There is a cafeteria on board, food is slightly more expensive than on land but still fairly reasonable, try the pizza. You can bring food on board but keep in mind you are crossing a border and certain fruits and meats are not allowed to cross. You can also buy food at towns as you stop along the way, although Ketchikan will be the only place with a grocery store and expect to pay a bit more than you would at a grocery store closer to civilisation.

Expect to meet some really interesting people on board. Humpback Whales and porpoises are also fairly common especially as you get closer to Juneau, best viewing is on back deck or the forward observation deck; seals and Orcas are also a possibility.

Prince Rupert, BC

Costs (I spent):
Hostels: $25 two great ones, Hostels have shuttle buses for those arriving late by ferry or rail. Ferry terminal and rail station are about 45 min walk from downtown area where hostels are located.

Photographed near waterfront

Camping: $15 -21, located walking distance to town. Hostel might allow you to pitch a tent in yard. If arriving late at night staying in hostel makes more sense.

Food: Prices in Prince Rupert are very reasonable, about the same as you would expect to pay in any other major city. There are a couple restaurants by the waterfront that offer very good value.

The town itself is kinda ordinary other than all the deer living in the city. Its a good place to rest, do laundry, and get a good meal. The Museum of Northern BC is worth checking out for the native art and history ($5). Prince Rupert is a major junction for backpackers and adventure travellers. I will outline possible destinations:

South - Inside passage ferry route to Port Hardy, Vancouver Island.

West - Haida Gwaii (Queen Charlotte Islands) and the Gwaii Haanas National Park. BC Ferries has a ferry that runs to the islands from Prince Rupert for a fair price. Keep in mind the south part of the island is where the famous totem pole carvings and ruins of aboriginal villages are located. This will require another boat or float plane (can get expensive and is why I chose not to go). Although still very popular. 

North - Inside Passage route to Juneau, Alaska and beyond. The Alaska Marine Highway System has a terminal in Prince Rupert with regular service.

East - Via rail has a train that runs through the mountains to Prince George, BC and on to Jasper, Alberta. Views from the train must be spectacular (I've never done it). This train is reasonably priced, check the Via rail website. There is also some road/bus possibilities headed inland.

BC Ferry from Port Hardy to Prince Rupert

Costs (I spent):

Transportation: $180 for ferry one way. BC Ferries (http://www.bcferries.com/) runs this trip on both night and day voyages, both voyages take about 15 hours and costs about $180 (foot passenger) one way. Go with the day sailing because you don't want to miss any of the scenery.

Food: $8 Lunch, $13 Dinner, $4-5 on snacks and coffee. The cost is slightly more than you would expect to pay on land. Buying some food and snacks at a grocery store before boarding will save some money.

Getting from Port Hardy to the ferry terminal can be tricky for foot passengers. Fortunately a shuttle picks up passengers from the hostels ($7) at 5am and delivers them to the ferry terminal. Upon arrival in Prince Rupert hostels have a free shuttle to pick up backpackers.

The Inside Passage is a legendary shipping route through the channels and islands along the BC and Alaska coast. The scenery along this route is unbelievable, imagine green mountains rising up on each side as the huge boat cruises on calm glassy ocean. There is a good chance to see Humpback Whales and Porpoises, maybe even an Orca. The best spot to see whales is from the back deck where you can view of both sides and behind the boat. Dress warmly (it gets windy) so you can be outside looking for whales as much as possible. The Captain will tell passengers if he sees a whale, but don't wait for the announcement, I saw 5-6 whales before the captain reported his first sighting to passengers.

Cape Scott Provincial Park

Costs (I Spent):

Transportation to and from park: $336 by shuttle (http://www.northcoasttrailshuttle.com/) will drop off and pick up hikers from the parking lot. Hikers doing the North Coast Trail can also arrange to be picked up by boat on the other end. Operates out of Port Hardy.

Camping: $10/person/night, self registration, rangers will ask for your proof of registration

Park is only about 60 Km from Port Hardy although the trip takes about 1.5 hours due to the rough logging roads. I considered renting a car and driving myself but instead opted to take the shuttle. Shuttle has an experienced driver on these roads, the van has heavy duty tires for the rough road, and a radio to communicate with the logging trucks operating on these roads. Pricing will depend on the amount of hikers travelling on the shuttle that day, if you make a reservation on a day where there is only one hiker the trip can be quite expensive (one of my trips was like that). Logging roads may be tough to navigate by those not accustomed to driving on them. Drivers must also be aware of logging trucks operating on these roads. Having said that many regular cars successfully make the trip. Don't leave food in your car, bears have broken into cars in the parking lot. Also there has been some cases of theft from cars parked at the trailhead.

After arrival at the trailhead I paid my fees and started the long hike (about 15Km) to Nels Bight. Nels is an absolutely spectacular beach, when I was there another hiker told me she had seen a lone wolf kill a deer on the beach (I missed it). However, I did see a whale from the beach.  There is a ranger cabin at Nels and there are rangers living there from June 15 to Sept 15, they can help you find the fresh water source at the beach. I pitched my tent on the beach and on the second day took the trail beyond Nels towards the light house. This trail is surreal you pass long sandy beaches strewn with driftwood, kelp, and buoys. There is a lighthouse at the end of the trail and its a bit strange to see its buildings emerge out of the wilderness. There is a lighthouse keeper who lives there. Close to the light house there are a couple side trails on west side of the main trail marked by buoys hanging in trees. They lead down to small rocky beaches with some really cool sea stacks. Walking around the rocky beach between these stacks is something that you must experience. I moved camp and spent my second night at Nissen Bight. Nissen bight is another great spot to camp, the water source is small creek at end of beach opposite from the food lockers. I hike the first 5-6Km on the western-most side of the North Coast Trail. It is difficult in fun kind of way. Trail weaves in and out, over and under logs in the dense forest. Third day I hiked back towards the trailhead/parking lot and took a side trail to the San Josef Bay. Locals refer to it as "San Joe." Its a short hike from the parking lot on a wide, easy, gravel trail that passes some gigantic trees. The beach at San Joe is very big, camping is permitted anywhere on the beach. There is a trail up Mt. St. Patrick apparently on a clear day you can see for miles. Clear day is the important thing to remember here, in this part of the world clear days are rare.

The Cape Scott Provincial Park is one of the most beautiful places on the planet. 

Port Hardy, BC

Near the Quarterdeck Marina

Costs (I spent):

$40 Greyhound into town.

$29 for a hostel/night

$20 food/day

I came into Port hardy by Greyhound from Courtenay. Ride was awesome, pass some really cool lakes, mountains, and forests. There is slight chance of seeing deer, bears, or other wildlife from the bus. The bus stops in Campbell River for about 30 min and passengers can get off and walk around town for a bit, there is enough time to get a coffee or something to eat. There is another stop at a tiny general store about midway between Campbell River and Port Hardy, snacks and washrooms are available. Port Hardy is accessible by Greyhound from just about anywhere on Vancouver Island ($35-60; 9 hours or less).

I arrived in PH in the evening, chatted with the hostel staff and then found a grocery store to prepare for my backcountry hiking/camping trip to Cape Scott Provincial Park (see other post). I watched a movie with some Germans in the hostel, checked my e-mail. Next morning I met my ride to the park. I returned a couple days later to PH, had a much needed meal and a beer at the sports bar after a couple days in the woods. From PH I took a spectacularly scenic ferry up the coast through tiny channels to Prince Rupert (BC Ferries; http://www.bcferries.com/ ; about 16 hours; $180). 

Hostels: $25 and up, there are two hostels in Port Hardy. Prices are almost exactly the same between hostels. You pay a couple more dollars to have a room with fewer beds. Both are not generally busy outside of July and August.

Camping: There are a couple campsites just outside of town. Only practical if you have a car.

General Info: Port Hardy is a small town but has everything a backpacker could desire, 2 great hostels, grocery store, bank, pubs, tourist info centre... Camping or backpacking supplies might be limited here. This beautiful town serves as a great base for those visiting the Cape Scott Provincial Park and/or those travelling up the coast by ferry. Hang out by the beach and watch the eagles, old logging roads on the edges of town serve as good hiking trails for day hikes.